Applying
Oil Base Finishes
1. Surface Preparation
All surfaces should be clean and free from all dirt and oils. Fill all nail
holes with putty before sanding. Sand surface using #150-#180 grade fine-grit
sandpaper. If you are finishing a piece made of closed grained hardwood, such as
Maple or Birch, use #120 grade sandpaper. The coarser paper will open up the
hard surface to more easily accept stain. Remove all the dust by vacuuming or
wiping with a lint-free cloth or tack cloths.
2. Drying Information
General Finishes Stains and Top Coats can dry
in 6-8 hours under ideal conditions (70% - 75% humidity). Cooler temperatures or
higher humidity may extend the time needed for drying up to 12-24 hours or
longer. Basements, even with a furnace, fireplace, and dehumidifier, are the
worst environments for drying. Provide good ventilation and air movement with a
fan to greatly improve dry time. If a stain coat is dry, you should be able to
wipe your hand across the surface without feeling any tackiness. If your top
coat is dry, sanding will produce a white powder.
3. Staining
Stains can be applied using a foam brush, bristle brush, paint pad
applicator, or a lint-free cloth. Wipe or brush on stain with your applicator.
Then remove excess stain by wiping with a clean cloth. It is important to wipe
off the stain thoroughly and consistently (in the direction of the grain) to get
an evenly stained surface. A second coat, applied after the first one is dry,
will give you a darker and deeper color. No more than two coats are recommended.
Do not sand a stain coat, only top coats.
Note: The white colorant in White Mist is titanium dioxide, which
penetrates far less than the earth clay pigments found in all other stain
colors. White stain is often called pickling stain as it lets much of the wood
color show through. It is not paint and will not cover like paint. Apply White
Mist as directed above. Be sure to wipe off the excess well to prevent lifting
during the application of the top coat. A second coat will add a little more
color. Let White Mist dry for 24 hours before a second coat or top coats.
4. Applying Top Coats
General Finishes Top Coats are made with the highest quality pure urethane
resin. They are as durable as polyurethane, but because of their thinner
viscosity, urethanes are much easier to apply. Apply the top coat with a
lint-free cloth, foam brush, or paint pad applicator, moving with the
direction of the grain. For large surfaces, apply a liberal coat as quickly as
possible, evening out surface with long, smooth strokes. When evening out the
top coat, keep your applicator wet to provide lubrication. A dry applicator
can drag on the surface and cause skid streaks. (These streaks may be easily
removed after the surface has dried by buffing well and recoating). Buff
between top coats with '0000' steel wool or #320 or finer grade sandpaper to
produce a smooth surface. A minimum of 3 top coats is recommended.
5. Maintenance and Care
It's important to let your final coat cure for a period of 14 days to reach
optimum hardness. You may use you project sooner, just treat it with special
care during the curing period. To maintain the finish use General Finishes
Orange Oil or just a damp cloth. Paste wax is not recommended,
because it builds up and yellows, thus becoming a maintenance problem.
6. Use caution in disposal of waste
materials
When using oil based finishes,
take careful precautions when disposing of waste products. Rags,
steel wool or other waste soaked with these products may spontaneously catch
fire if improperly discarded. Immediately after use, place rags,
steel wool or waste in sealed, water filled, metal container. Dispose of
in accordance with local fire regulations.
Note: To rejuvenate an old dull finish, simply clean surface
well with mineral sprits and '0000' steel wool and apply one of General Finishes Top
Coats.